Lombardy Tag

23 Jan Monza – An undiscovered treasure on the doorstep of Milan

Image by James Steakley, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Nestled in the heart of Lombardy, just a short drive from Milan, Monza is a largely undiscovered destination steeped in history and culture. If you’re looking for a day trip from Milan, Monza might be just the thing. This charming city is a treasure trove of historical significance and architectural wonders. 

Monza’s history dates back to Roman times, but it truly rose to prominence during the Middle Ages, when it was a more significant centre than Milan. 

The city’s crown jewel is the stunning Basilica di Monza, a masterpiece of Romanesque-Gothic architecture. This cathedral houses the Iron Crown of Lombardy, said to contain a nail from the True Cross and to symbolise the unity of the Lombard people. Legend has it that the crown was used in the coronation of Charlemagne in 774 and was definitely used throughout the Middle Ages in the coronations of various Holy Roman Emperors, including Napoleon. The Iron Crown is a circlet made of gold and set with precious gems. Recent scientific studies indicate that its current form can be traced back to modifications made between the 4th and 5th centuries and the 9th century. It is likely a late antique royal symbol, potentially of Ostrogothic origin, passed down to the Lombard kings and eventually acquired by the Carolingian monarchs.

Other things thing to see in Monza: 

  1. Chapel of Teodolinda: A chapel set on the northern side of the Basilica di Monza, the Teodolinda Chapel houses the Iron Crown. It contains a beautiful fresco cycle, recently restored, that depicts scenes from the life of Teodolinda, the 6th Century Queen of the Lombards. 
  2. Villa Reale (Royal Palace of Monza): Wander through the expansive park surrounding the Villa Reale, a neoclassical masterpiece commissioned by Empress Maria Theresa of Austria. The palace and its grounds offer a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of the city.
  3. Autodromo Nazionale Monza: For racing enthusiasts, visiting the famous Monza Circuit is a must. This historic racetrack has hosted Formula One races since 1922 and is a shrine for motorsport fans.
  4. Arengario Palace: Explore the Arengario Palace, which houses the Civic Art Collections and Contemporary Art Gallery. The palace itself is an architectural gem, and the collections inside showcase historic and contemporary Italian art.
  5. Monza Park (Parco di Monza): Enjoy a leisurely stroll or a bike ride through Monza Park, one of the largest enclosed parks in Europe. The park features lush greenery, charming bridges, and the historic Royal Villa.


Culinary Delights:

No visit to Monza would be complete without trying the local cuisine. Indulge in traditional Lombard dishes at one of the many charming restaurants around the city. Local specialities include Risotto alla Monzese, a creamy risotto featuring saffron, a nod to the Lombard countryside’s agricultural heritage. Another must-try is Cassoeula, a savoury pork and cabbage stew, representing the hearty fare enjoyed during colder months. Also try the local cheese and Brianza salami, which are made in the area just outside Monza. 

 

We visit Monza on our Italian Lakes and Lombardy tour in June 2024. 

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21 Nov Discover the Valtellina – An Alpine Paradise

Known as the “Alpine Jewel of Lombardy,” the Valtellina valley offers an enchanting getaway for travellers seeking a blend of rich history, captivating architecture, and the majesty of the Alps. Nestled in the heart of Lombardy, this hidden gem is a true revelation. Nature, culture, and adventure blend perfectly to create an unforgettable experience.

Key Attractions

Discover the region’s rich history through visits to historical sites, including well-preserved Roman ruins, medieval castles, and churches that showcase the area’s cultural heritage. Immerse yourself in the stunning alpine panorama of the Valtellina, where snow-capped peaks, lush forests, and pristine rivers define the landscape.

Sondrio’s Charm
Sondrio, the capital of the area, is a vibrant hub of culture and traditions. It hosts many festivals and events throughout the year, celebrating the region’s music, arts, and folklore in grand style.

Winemaking Wonders
The valley boasts a rich tradition of winemaking, where Nebbiolo grapes reign supreme. The region’s unique climate and terraced vineyards conspire to craft exquisite Valtellina wines, a delight for connoisseurs.

Historical Treasures
Step back in time as you explore charming historical towns and villages, each showcasing its unique architectural heritage. Medieval castles, churches, and traditional stone houses reveal the region’s rich history.

Spectacular Railway Journeys
Tirano, a quaint mountain town, is the gateway to a breathtaking journey. The Bernina Express starts from here, treating you to awe-inspiring mountain vistas all the way to St. Moritz in Switzerland.

Culinary Delights

The Valtellina’s cuisine reflects the region’s diversity, with different areas offering their own specialities and variations on classic dishes. This regional diversity adds depth and complexity to the local food culture. The area’s proximity to the Alpine region means its cuisine incorporates ingredients and flavours typical of the mountain cultures. This includes hearty, nutrient-rich foods such as buckwheat, cheese, and air-dried meats.

Pizzoccheri
You must experience the local speciality of pizzoccheri, a type of buckwheat pasta that’s a favourite comfort food in the Valtellina. It’s often served with a mouthwatering combination of potatoes, cabbage, garlic, sage, and cheese, creating a hearty and flavoursome dish.

Bresaola
Savour the richness of bresaola, an air-dried beef delicacy for which the Valtellina is famous. This cured meat is typically sliced thinly and served with a drizzle of olive oil, lemon juice, and fresh ground pepper, creating a perfect balance of flavours.

Sciatt
Don’t let the unappetising name put you off this irresistible alpine treat. These fried cheese balls are as indulgent as they sound, with a crispy exterior and a gooey, cheesy centre. They are often served with lingonberry jam, adding a touch of sweetness to the savoury experience.

Honey
The local honey comes in a surprising number of varieties, including rhododendron, chestnut, linden, alpine multiflora, and acacia. The province of Sondrio features a total of 6,000 hives alone.

Explore the Outdoors

The stunning alpine landscapes make it the perfect canvas for outdoor enthusiasts. Whether you’re an avid hiker, a passionate cyclist, or simply someone who loves to breathe in the fresh mountain air, Valtellina offers many thrilling experiences. With its network of hiking and trekking trails, challenging mountain biking routes, and opportunities for wildlife spotting, this region invites you to explore its pristine natural beauty.

Wildlife Wonders
Discover the biodiversity of the area’s nature reserves and wildlife sanctuaries. Rare bird species, mammals, and reptiles await your observation in these protected havens. Stelvio National Park is the largest park in the Alps, spanning valleys formed by glaciers and the waters that flow down from the imposing Ortles-Cevedale mountains.

Cycling Paradise
Calling all cyclists and mountain biking enthusiasts! Valtellina beckons with its scenic routes and challenging mountain trails, a paradise for bikers from around the world. The “Sentiero Valtellina” is a trail covering almost the entire breadth of Valtellina and Valchiavenna.

Winter Wonderland
For snow enthusiasts, the valley transforms into a winter wonderland from late December to early April. Skiing, snowboarding, and a range of winter activities await in renowned resorts such as Bormio, Livigno, and Aprica.

 

We spend a beautiful day in the Valtellina on our Italian Lakes Discovery tour (May and September 2024) and our Italian Lakes and Lombardy tour (June 2024). 

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30 Jul The living gem that is Bergamo

Bergamo is one of our all-time favourite small Italian towns — a medieval hilltop  borough bristling with towers and atmospheric buildings that are carefully protected and maintained, so that the visitor feels completely immersed in history.

The town is built on three ascending levels. The modern part of the town sits at the base of the hill, and is a thriving commercial centre with pleasant tree-lined streets, parks and gardens. The upper town, or città alta, is reached via a funicular that carries visitors to the medieval centre, the citadel at the top of the hill. Another funicular takes visitors to the third and highest level of the town, San Vigilio, so-called because of the castle that sits at its summit.

Before heading for the  città alta, those interested in art galleries might want to spend time in the Museo Accademico di Carrara which is located just outside the Venetian walls that surround the  mediaeval centre. It has an excellent collection of Renaissance and medieval paintings and fine art, and is an important regional museum.

The  città alta is a wonderful area for walking, with narrow stone streets that lead through various piazze to offer delightful surprises for the casual wanderer. 

The walls, originally built by the Venetians, have never been breached and are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Visitors can walk around, along and even within the walls.

However the undoubted highlight is the Palazzo della Ragione, a twelfth century building that was revamped in the 1500s to meet Venetian aesthetic standards —  one of those standards being to make the civic building more important than the church! The Venetians created a new piazza, Piazza Vecchia, by demolishing a building, and then rebuilding the town hall so that it faced onto the new piazza and would be the first thing a visitor would see. They completed the new work with the installation of a charming fountain boasting a series of lovely lions.

The town contains a beautiful and intact religious precinct, with two magnificent churches sitting side by side. One is the duomo and one the basilica. The duomo of Bergamo, San Alessandro, is the principal Catholic Church of the city, built in the mid 1400s, while the Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore was funded by local people in a show of wealth and importance in the 1100s. The Bergamaschi traditionally viewed the basilica as the more important church, so when one of the autocratic and powerful local lords had a section of that church demolished in the middle of the night to erect a mausoleum for himself, people were understandably outraged. However, the mausoleum remains and is considered one of the prettiest Renaissance structures in the city to this day.

We’ll be visiting Bergamo – and staying in a medieval tower hotel in the città alta – as part of our Milan and the Italian Lakes tour in May-June 2020. 

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Milan Duomo

24 Nov AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO MILAN

What’s not to love about Milan? Milan’s Expo in 2015 really put the city on the tourist map, not only as a convenient transport hub but as a destination in its own right, offering culture, food and fashion.

We’re lucky enough to visit Milan fairly regularly as it’s the first base on our Milan and the Italian Lakes tour (31 May – 13 June 2018 – read the itinerary here) and we’ve got to know the city fairly well over the years.

So where do you start in Milan? Most visitors head straight for the Duomo and the Galleria in the centre of Milan, a great place to start your tour of the city and undeniably the area with the biggest wow factor.

You need to buy tickets for the Duomo. Smart travellers will pre-book tickets that allow them to skip the queue and get through security that much faster. You can buy a combined ticket for the Duomo, the roof walk (which we think is an unmissable experience) and the Museo del Duomo, which provides an excellent history of the building. Visit the official website for ticket sales here.

From the Duomo, wander through the Galleria by all means, but look upwards and avoid the expensive tourist shops that proliferate here. If you are keen to shop in Milan, Philippa recommends the Brera area for boutique shopping; for big brand names and high-street chains explore the Corso that extends behind the Duomo; for more budget shopping, try the Corso Buenos Aires area.

You may want to see Da Vinci’s masterpiece, the Last Supper, which has been beautifully restored. Tickets sell out fast and there is very little chance of simply turning up on the day and gaining admission. Make sure you book well in advance. The official site publishes the date when tickets will go on sale for a specific month so it’s worth keeping an eye on the site to ensure you don’t miss the booking window.

While you’re in the area don’t miss Santa Maria delle Grazie, the church that is attached to the refectory where the Last Supper is housed. Luca is a particular fan of the Bramante designed cupola sitting atop this gothic church. To get there take the number 16 tram from Piazza Cordusio or take a cab.

Visit Milan

But Milan offers much, much more than the big three attractions. Here is a list of some of our favourites:

  • For art lovers visit the Pinacoteca di Brera, a treasure house of Italian art and more. Don’t miss Mantegna’s Dead Christ and the Three Mourners, as well as works by Bellini, Piero della Francesca, Tintoretto and Caravaggio.
  • Less than a kilometre from the Brera, is the smaller and charmingly eclectic Museo Poldi Pezzoli. This was once a private family house and collection and contains a fascinating assortment of artworks including a beautiful Botticelli, exquisite porcelain and a stunning display of armour.
  • Classical music buffs should jump at the chance to attend a performance at the Teatro alla Scala. There are performances of ballet, opera and classical music almost all year round, except for August. You need to buy tickets well in advance and be sure to book on the official La Scala website to avoid the ticket scalpers.
  • Want some more wonderful churches? Our favourites are Sant Eustorgio to see the Cappella Portinari, the most exquisite Renaissance chapel remaining in Milan; Sant’Ambrogio, which is one of the oldest churches in the city and an excellent example of medieval architecture; San Maurizio which has a complete and spectacular Renaissance fresco cycle that covers every surface in the church.
  • Sore feet? After all this activity, wind down with an aperitivo in the Navigli area, where a collection of great bars and restaurants line one of the old canals that were once used as transport arteries in Milan. It’s picturesque, trendy and lively – a wonderful way to finish the day.

Where to stay:

We love the Hotel Gran Duca di York, a lovely 3 star hotel tucked away on a quiet street just a three-minute walk from the Piazza del Duomo.

Where to eat:

For food lovers, a visit to Peck is a must. Part upmarket grocer, part cafe and restaurant, it’s worth a visit simply to take in the sumptuous displays of fruit and vegetables, meats, cheeses, pastries, chocolates and more.

For an authentic meal in the centre of town, try Trattoria Milanese (Via Santa Marta, 11), where you can try local specialities like Risotto alla Milanese (flavoured with saffron) and the Cotolleta alla Milanese, essentially a giant veal schnitzel.

You can visit Milan with Italian Tours as part of our delightful Milan and the Italian Lakes tour from the 31 May – 13 June 2018! You’ll also stay in the wonderful medieval town of Bergamo and visit Lakes Como, Maggiore and Orta on this 14-day tour.

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