Emilia Romagna Tag

08 Dec COPING IN THE YEAR OF COVID

2020 has been a devastating year for so many of us, and while the pandemic has completely knocked our business over, Luca and I are so fortunate that our friends and family have all remained safe and well. And particularly so when so many of our family, friends and colleagues live in Italy where the pandemic has been so much worse. 

While our tours have been suspended in 2020, Luca and I have turned our attention to a new initiative, that we hope will go some way towards easing your ‘homesickness’ for all things Italian, as well as supporting some of the Italian artisan producers who are missing us as much as we are missing them.

Over many years of taking travellers to Italy we’ve built close relationships with local people who produce specialised products including oils and vinegars, distinctive Venetian glass jewellery, handmade olive oil cosmetics and beautifully patterned tableware and linens. 

And so we have launched Origine Italiana, a small online boutique dedicated to beautiful things, all 100% made-in-Italy! We’ve started with a small but gorgeous range of Italian gifts and homewares: Florentine table cloths and tea towels, Venetian glass jewellery and a line of cosmetics for men and women, made in Tuscany. 

If you’re still looking for Christmas gifts or would like to treat yourself, head across to our online store to browse the collection! 

Shop Now!
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12 Oct PALAZZO SCHIFANOIA – A RENAISSANCE TREASURE IN FERRARA

Article by Emanuela Mari.

After well over two years of renovations, the Great Hall of the Months in Ferrara’s Palazzo Schifanoia, one of the most extravagant and fascinating residences of the Italian Renaissance, has reopened to the public gaze. Borso d’Este commissioned a group of local artists to complete the celebrated fresco cycle that decorates its walls in 1469. The careful restoration, complemented by the new and much-improved lighting, has given it new life.

Borso d’Este was an illustrious member of Ferrara’s Este family, which ruled over the city for around 400 years from the 13th Century. He was very fond of sumptuous and magnificent displays of grandeur, which he used to great success to impress his subjects as well as neighbouring States. He wasn’t alone in this type of exercise: it was common in most Renaissance courts, where culture and shows of magnificence were often used as a political tool.

The fresco cycle of the months on the walls of Palazzo Schifanoia’s Great Hall is a result of these attitudes. The whole palace itself is a celebration of leisure and frivolous diversion as the name of the palace suggests — Schifanoia derives from the court’s use of the palace to avoid boredom (schifar la noia). It was also used to entertain and house foreign dignitaries and important guests.

The artwork is an enormous calendar that represents and glorifies the good acts and positive outcomes of Borso d’Este’s government. These are set out month-by-month and are depicted as being influenced and protected by the classical divinities and the stars according to the medieval astrological tradition.

The fresco portrays a loggia in the foreground with various scenes playing out behind it. The columns of the loggia frame the months, and each frame is divided horizontally into three sections. The top section portrays one of the classical divinities (on a triumphal float surrounded by followers and proteges). The middle is an astrological representation, with the sign of the Zodiac, surrounded by the three patrons of that month according to an Arabic reading of astrology and magic. The bottom section depicts scenes of Borso d’Este surrounded by his court, busy with the activities of government and court life, such as hunting with falcons.

Detail from the month of March by Francesco del Cossa – The Triumph of Minerva
Image by Sailko / CC BY-SA  and found on Wikimedia Commons

The details of the frescos are so intricate and astounding that the meaning of some, especially in the middle section, are today shrouded in mystery. The fresco cycle, with its sophisticated and complex iconographic language, was conceived by the great Pellegrino Prisciani, Borso d’Este’s court intellectual. He was an important and influential figure in the cultural scene of the Ferrara court, an all-round humanist, well-versed in many disciplines, including astrology.

As for the artists and their work, they were a very talented group that created one of the most extraordinary works of art of the Renaissance. There is one artist in particular whose talent stands out from the rest. Francesco Del Cossa’s superior technique and exceptional artistic style make his contribution to the hall’s Eastern wall the most impressive. His work has survived the test of time much better than that of his colleagues.

Francesco Del Cossa is one of the most noteworthy, yet forgotten artists of the 15th Century. We know very little about his formative years. What we do know is that he worked between Ferrara and Bologna and that he was sought-after and much respected by his contemporaries and peers, including Michelangelo. So much so, that his work inspired an important school of followers.

As a final note, a warning to the prospective visitor. Unfortunately, not all of the fresco cycle has survived intact. If Del Cossa’s work on the Eastern wall (the months of March, April and May) is still in exceptional shape, and that of various masters (June to September) on the Northern wall is well maintained, the same cannot be said about much of the rest, where only faint traces of the old decorations remain. This is in part due to the ravages of time and partly because the fresco was painted over and forgotten for centuries.

In 1598, when the Este could not provide a direct line of succession, the Pope, who had granted the Este feudal rights to Ferrara, expelled them from the city and annexed it to the Papal States. Palazzo Schifanoia like the majority of the more than 50 leisure residences interspersed throughout the territory, fell into decay.

The Este’s expulsion brought to an end an era of fervid artistic activity and arguably the most prosperous period in Ferrara’s history. Their court was considered one of the most refined and progressive in all of Europe. They left the city of Ferrara a fantastic blueprint to their Ideal City they had cultivated for centuries, echoes of which are still evident today. The fresco cycle of the months in Palazzo Schifanoia is a magnificent example of this.

We visit Ferrara on our Undiscovered Riches – Discovering Emila Romagna tour, next scheduled for September 2021 and Emanuela will take us on a guided visit to the Palazzo Schifanoia.

Thank you to Emanuela Mari, local tour guide from Ferrara for contributing this article.

Local tour guide Ferrara

Emanuela fell in love with her city from a very early age — its art, history and culture were so intriguing that she decided to turn it into a career. She first completed a humanities degree (Lettere Moderne) at the University of Ferrara. She then undertook additional studies to become a licensed tour guide for the province.

She’s been working as a tour guide for more than twenty years and loves introducing her clients to Ferrara and its treasures. She speaks Italian, French and English fluently.

If you’re thinking of visiting Ferrara once this pandemic is over, you should definitely book a guided tour of Palazzo Schifanoia with her! You can contact her via her Facebook page, or of course, through us.

Detail from the month of April by Francesco del Cossa
Image by Sailko / CC BY-SA  and found on Wikimedia Commons

Detail from the month of March by Francesco del Cossa
Image by Sailko / CC BY-SA  and found on Wikimedia Commons

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14 Aug HOW TO EAT PARMIGIANO REGGIANO – LET ME COUNT THE WAYS!

Sitting at the Trattoria Corrieri in Parma we are presented with a plate piled high with golden, crumbling wedges of Parmigiano Reggiano, and a knife and fork. This is how they do it in Parma. At Luca’s mother’s house we spoon great clouds of the golden cheese onto our pasta. At our friend Theo’s place, we drizzle the best balsamic vinegar over hunks of Parmigiano and eat it with pears. Luca simmers Parmigiano rinds in his winter broth.

Parmigiano is perhaps the best known, the best loved and the most versatile of Italian cheeses. Italians have been making it since the thirteenth century, mainly in the region that takes in Bologna, Parma, Reggio Emilia and Modena.

As part of our Unexpected Riches – Discovering Emilia Romagna tour we travel up into the lower part of the Apennine Mountains above Bologna to visit a caseificio or cheese maker. This is a cooperative of milk producers who raise the original Bruna Alpina cows, the breed that has traditionally produced the milk used for Parmigiano in this area. While other producers have switched to the more productive Friesian style cow, the milk the Bruna Alpina produces has a unique nutty taste and a much higher content of cream.

The cooperative aims to compete with larger companies on the basis of the quality of their cheese. As a group they can combine their technologies and reduce production costs to make this type of process financially viable. They are passionate about their cattle and the quality of the type of cheese produced in the mountain. They belong to a new group called the Consortium of Mountain Producers that is promoting traditional food production.

We make a day trip of this, heading out of Bologna early so that we’re at the caseificio in time to see the cheese being made. If we’re lucky we can see the Bruna Alpina cattle grazing in fields along the way. And of course, the highlight of all this for many people is a tasting of this very special cheese.

Above is a short clip from our visit to Caseificio Pieve Roffeno last year, showing the cheesemakers shaping the soft cheese into what will become a wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano. It’s just one step in a very long process that has been done like this for centuries and strictly regulated by the Italian Parmigiano Consortium for many years.

We’re planning to run our Unexpected Riches – Discovering Emilia Romagna tour again in mid-2021. Please get in touch for more details. 

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5th Century mosaics from Ravenna

09 Apr THE UNEXPECTED RICHES OF RAVENNA

Tucked away on the Adriatic coast, not really on the way to any of the major tourist destinations, is a small city that contains some of the most astonishing and beautiful Roman mosaics anywhere in Italy.

After the Roman Empire was divided into two, Constantine established his eastern capital in Constantinople and Ravenna became the capital of the Western Roman Empire from 402AD until its collapse in 496AD. Ravenna then became the capital of the Christian Ostragoth kingdom until 540, when it was taken over by the Byzantine (Eastern Roman) empire as part of a move to reconquer parts of their original homeland on the Italian peninsula. They held the sliver of land along the coastline from Puglia to Venice. Throughout this period of change, however, Ravenna remained a rich and thriving port city with a constant population that maintained its established Roman culture, trade and crafts.

Ravenna’s famous mosaics were completed over a roughly hundred year period from the mid 400s to mid 500s. This artistic tradition of Roman origins, was maintained and influenced by the latter civilisations that inherited the city and in particular by the Byzantines. UNESCO has listed eight buildings as World Heritage Sites, which for what seems like a small town today, demonstrates the enormous wealth and prestige it had at the time.

The mosaics are unusual in that they are so prolific, largely intact and utterly dazzling with huge amounts of gold and brilliant lapis lazuli blue. Before Christianity, Romans used mosaics as decoration for their houses and villas but the Ravenna mosaics represent a shift to religious imagery, and in the style of public art. Significantly, because of the time it takes to create mosaics of this scale and detail, they must have been completed during a period of peace and stability. 

The most famous of the churches is the Basilica of San Vitale, which inspired Charlemagne who visited Ravenna three times and used the basilica as his model when he built the Palatine chapel in Aachen in Germany. The central apse towers over the rest of the church so that the visitor gazes upwards to see the intricate golden mosaics that line the cupola.

However, the oldest and possibly the most beautiful of the buildings is the mausoleum of Galla Placidia, the tomb of the daughter of the Roman Emperor Theodosius I.  This small rounded building is set in the grounds of San Vitale and the entire barrel vaulted ceiling is decorated with gorgeous brilliantly coloured mosaics. Looking up the visitor sees hundreds of dazzling golden stars in a midnight blue sky. At the end of the vault the lunette features an image of a beardless Christ, very different from the normal iconography which portrays Christ with a beard.  

All of the buildings containing these unique mosaics are collected around the centre of Ravenna and it’s easy to visit the sites in a day or two. 

We stay in Ravenna and visit the mosaics as part of our new Unexpected Riches – Discovering Emilia Romagna tour, which runs from the 16 – 27 September 2019 and there are still a couple of places available!

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